In an industry dominated by the words “streetwear” and “atleisure”, Paco Rabanne and Altuzarra made a bold move, banking on exotic inspirations with a highly nomadic glamour. Here’s the proof.
Paco Rabanne, decadent multiculturalism
“My dream hotel lobby, where everyone you want to see passes by.” This is how Julien Dossena, Paco Rabanne’s creative director, saw the Parisian brand’s spring/summer 2019 show, of which we already offered a glimpse on our Instagram account.
It was a colourful show at the crossroads of thirties’ Hollywood glamour and the ostentatious rebellious attitude of the seventies, all against a backdrop of ethnic couture inspirations. Chunky knit dresses printed with Art Deco motifs followed on from velvet dresses with a retro architecture, while evening gowns fell in supple curves.
Pondicherry-style silk blouses took a shine to sequin flares, gingham prints gave an urban feel to Indian embroidery and streams of diamonds gentrified layers of clothing that were themselves decadent.
It was all about splendour and the celebration of know-how, as well as the commemoration of a heritage that still holds a rightful place in modern wardrobes.
Altuzarra, nomadic maturity
Joseph Altuzarra also made this journey between past and present the source of inspiration for his new collection.
Celebrating ten wonderful years of design, the fashion prodigy took advantage of the opportunity to revive some of his key pieces, such as a wool and cashmere coat designed in 2009, halfway between a trench coat and a leather jacket. However, the young designer also offered an immersion in the colours and motifs of Marrakesh, making Moroccan prints and the adventurer’s wardrobe the guiding thread of this new show, as he did in 2012.
A biker jacket with cable-knit sleeves, cotton microdresses juxtaposed with Oriental prints, lamé pleated skirts teamed with large fishnet stockings: the collection fused a plurality of worlds unaccustomed to dialoguing on the same catwalk. A bonanza not to be missed under any circumstances.