A high point of the latest London fashion week, the Burberry Spring-Summer 2019 fashion show allowed Riccardo Tisci, the house’s new artistic director, to be officially inducted with his first, (much)-anticipated mixed collection. A show event that confirmed the stylistic vision of Christopher Bailey’s successor after weeks of teasing and the inauguration of a new visual identity.
A show event
A coronation. At least that’s what the happy few invited to Riccardo Tisci’s first catwalk for Burberry on 17 September in London’s Vauxhall district had to say. Entitled ‘Kingdom’, this first collection of 134 garments fluidly combines feminine and masculine silhouettes, all centred around three major themes: Refined, Relaxed and Evening Wear.
Creative stylistic chapters, designed by this new Chief Creative Officer as an ode to British culture in all its diversity, from preppy punk looks to chic neighbourhood style.
A reinvented identity
The Italian designer took the liberty of revisiting late-nineties tartan with vertical lines (in place of the usual Burberry check) and generously integrated the brand’s new logo-monogram, triumphantly introduced last August in collaboration with Peter Saville. Another novelty was the profusion of animal prints, warming the style of this legendarily classic fashion house with a twist of exoticism.
Leopard blouses, crocodile trench coats and pieces flocked with the words “Why did you kill Bambi”: Riccardo Tisci plunges the Londoner into an excursion to the extremes of city comfort.
It also encourages humour with the adornment of second-degree accessories such as card-holder necklaces and carabiner belt, veritable aliens in the traditional Burberry universe.
The former artistic director of Givenchy has not forgotten his night-time predilections and for this Spring-Summer 2019 collection he has created a series of little black dresses with contemporary lines, be them enhanced with bustiers, draped fabric or jewellery detailing worthy of any West London party girl.
A new Burberry woman
Diversity was also evident on the catwalk, with a casting of top models walking the runway to the brand new sounds of Massive Attack that included, among others, a delicate Natalia Vodianova, busty Irina Shayk and androgynous Stella Tennant.
The outlining of a new Burberry woman with multiple faces that seeks to push the boundaries of this 165 year-old kingdom of luxury.