It was in the heart of the capital of alternative clubbing that GmbH was founded, a collective of creators with a hybrid fashion offering that lies somewhere between anti-consumerism and iconoclastic style.
Streetwear born from the nocturnal wardrobe
GmbH. In English, the name of this enigmatic collective of German designers translates as ‘Ltd’, an acronym commonly used to designate the legal status of businesses. An almost innocent nose-thumbing at the usual names of fashion labels, as the founders of the brand, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, told Dazed Magazine: “We didn’t really want to use our own names; as we don’t want the main focus to be on us.”
And for good reason: founded in 2016, the Northern European label does not so much celebrate the creative genius of its designers but rather highlights a unique lifestyle, with the collections of GmbH drawing their inspiration from Berlin’s party and techno scene. Leather jackets with reworked volumes, gleaming PVC pants and ostentatiously tight t-shirts: the garments, often gender-fluid, appropriate the codes of the nightclub wardrobe, at the same time as playing with sportswear references.
A stylistic offering in line with the times that also boasts a responsible, almost militant means of production. Made using the deadstock of a Milanese factory, the majority of the garments claim to be an act of resistance to textile overproduction, a true plague that has spread throughout the fashion industry.
From fashion CVs to artistic profiles
Unlike the majority of designers, Serhat and Benjamin have built up their fashion CVs far from the beaten path. Of Turkish origin, Serhat first graduated from the School of Art and Design Berlin Weissensee before going on to work at Bless, Kostas Murkudis and Drogg.
Benjamin, a former student of fine arts in Oslo and then Chelsea, is a photographer and regular contributor to The Gentlewoman, Dazed and Purple Magazine, and also works for labels such as Adidas and Lanvin. What better background for a true label of its time?