While Virgil Abloh and his recent first Menswear show for Louis Vuitton are the talk of the town, his former assistant at Off-White also made an impression at London’s latest spring/summer fashion week. We’re talking about Samuel Ross and his young brand A-Cold-Wall, which is breaking down the established barriers between streetwear and couture codes and offering a socially aware vision of fashion.
A homage to the British melting pot
The young label A-Cold-Wall created by Samuel Ross in 2015 has developed a raw and conceptual aesthetic that takes its inspiration from the ultra-urban and minimalist landscapes of the British cities where he grew up.
Incidentally, the brand’s name “A-Cold-Wall” is a reference to the dilapidated “white walls” that Ross encountered during his childhood. With its fractured cuts and shades of grey, white and black, A-Cold-Wall delivers a socially aware message, like a tribute to the middle classes and the British cultural melting pot.
Conceptual yet wearable fashion
While A-Cold-Wall is developing a fashion that takes a great deal of care with stylistic aspects, its clothes aim to remain affordable and wearable. The strong pieces in its wardrobe include asymmetric nylon trousers, oversize redimensioned T-shirts and functional bags, peppered with pockets, zips, cords and other Velcro strips.
Samuel Ross uses basic and industrial materials such as nylon, PVC, plastic and fishing wire to give his pieces and accessories a very technical style.
Within a few years, “A-Cold-Wall” has become one of the most promising labels thanks to his ability to design clothing that is a real architectural feat.